Author Topic: Tyre wear  (Read 3134 times)

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Offline Jepwee

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Re: Tyre wear
« Reply #15 on: January 15, 2021, 17:11:40 PM »
Hi, just thought I would give an update tyre wear and rear trailing arm bushes. Managed to obtain 2 original bushes just before Xmas. To my surprise  there was not much difference between original and pattern parts. I noticed a slight noise from the rear bearing so I will change the bearing and check the brake back plate to see I its rusty where the brake shoes retaining pins go. Coming back to the rear bearing I understand it is a pig to remove. I have searched this site and Calibra Net for any pointers. Unfortunately there isn't any just that its a nightmare to do. I have checked YouTube there's nothing on Calibra bearings but if you put in Omega B, which shares the same bearing set up, there's about 4 how to do's video's. I am not going to use hammers but invest in a press and do it as per manual. Keeping my head down while this Covid storm is blowing and do the job when things settle down and its warmer.
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Offline Jepwee

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Re: Tyre wear
« Reply #16 on: March 23, 2021, 20:37:56 PM »
Hi, Update on changing trailing arm bushes and rear bearing. Managed to obtain original bushes and rear bearing complete with new C clip. A trawled the net for advice. I found a Swedish guy on the Omega site who posted a load of photos how he changed his rear bearing. He used a front wheel bearing removal kit which contained 3 10mm/12mm dia long bolts that you screw through wheel bolt holes so you can wind out the hub. I was going to by a 6 ton press but I decided to follow this route and bought a 19 piece bearing puller set that contained the bolts to wind out the hub. I removed the rear brake caliper, shock absorber and spring. On closer inspection I found if I put the bolts with nuts behind them through the holes that used to adjust the hand brake shoes the bolts lined up with the bolts that hold the back plate in place. I cut 2 postage size 3mm steel to protect the bolt heads. I borrowed a 32mm 6 sided 3/4 drive socket and a long 500mm tommy bar to undo the rear nut. Without this setup I doubt I would have managed to undue the nut after first locking up the wheel side with a long bar. I screwed the hub out which came out fairly easy, the bearing did not come apart, removed the C clip, you need a good pair circlip pliers as the clip is an animal. The bearing kit contained all the mandrels you need to remove the bearing. Just a bit on the kit the threaded bar was 20mm thick, the nut had a thread 50mm long and a nice touch    the contained a small bearing thrust washer to fit behind the bolt head. After I set it all up it easily pulled out the bearing and after resting the puller pulled the new bearing backing in. Part 2 tomorrow.

Offline Jepwee

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Re: Tyre wear
« Reply #17 on: March 24, 2021, 18:24:39 PM »
Hi, Part 2 I forgot to mention that after I removed the hub I took off the hand brake shoes and removed the back plate. I have read somewhere that the 10mm Torx bolts are made of cheese and they are. I managed to undo them just before the splined tool began to strip the heads. I checked over the back plate and checked the shoe retaining pin holes, all ok. With the back plate out the way it gave me great access to set up the bearing puller. After I fitted the new bearing I removed the trailing arm. This still involved undoing the sub frame bolts and jack up the body so I could remove the bolt nearest the sill ( the bolt head hits the body work) With the arm out it was just a case pulling the old bushes out after cutting the lips off the old bushes. The tool I used was the old Cortina void bush tool , remember them ! worked a treat. With the bushes in I used plan A to fit the hub back in. The plan was to support the back of the bearing with a piece of tube, rest the lot on a steel plate and tap the hub back in. I found it impossible to hold the arm and try and tap the hub back in straight and not damage the bearing. Time for plan B. I found if I lightly tapped the hub in just a couple of mm there just a couple threads showing so I could screw the nut back on. I was worried that I might strip the threads but it was enough to start and wind the hub in. I used different pieces of spacer until the hub was back in. This just left ABS flange to fit. It was easier to hold the arm and rest the hub on the steel plate and tap the flange back on and refit the nut. There's know doubt that if you had a press fitting the hub would be a piece of cake. I would not rely on just using the nut I was lucky that the nut did not strip so I would not recommend it.  Just a note on the nut locking ring. I found it a pain to fit , the idea of the lock ring is cup shaped and when you tap it home the outside edges bite against the flange. If you don't tap it in square the edges bend and it falls out, great. After bending the edges back I found 40mm piece of tube and tapped in square so it locked in place. I will fit it all back tomorrow and see how it goes.

Offline Jepwee

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Re: Tyre wear
« Reply #18 on: March 25, 2021, 21:31:19 PM »
Hi, The car is now all back together. I now need a new tyre and have the suspension geometry checked. As for the faulty rear bearing I could only hear it when the wheel was jacked up off the ground not when the car was driven so I hope that's now ok.
Hope this thread has been helpful.