Author Topic: my way to detail your paint  (Read 3639 times)

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Offline kremscalibra

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my way to detail your paint
« on: June 07, 2015, 13:45:12 PM »
hi all, i do a little spray painting and panel beating as a hobby and 1 of the steps involved is paint detailing
i will do this in parts as i have limited time with work, renovations, young children and fixing up cars.
i will put up pics (and maybe some clips if needed and if i can figure out how to, youtube have plenty anyways)

step 1. cleaning
mainly wash the heck out of your car, get some degreaser and spray on pretty much everything under the body mouldings, it will help clean off most of the grime, get a sponge that has a microfibre side and a scrubbing side,
chamois' are old school now, but still work well, BUT never use them on black/dark cars, they scratch your paint, get a really good quality microfibre cloth, actually get a heap of them, to keep your paint looking great, you will need them
after the car is dry outside and inside the door jams and openings, park it in the shed or shade somewhere,
get a clay bar kit, read the destructions and obey them to the letter, but simply, clay bar your the whole outsde of the car, it will remove all the contaminants from your paint and make it smooth, it will also help remove your old polish and waxes
a good solvent cleaner like wax and grease remover will get the rest of the wax from your car,

step 2: inspection and correction
this is where it get hairy, especially for a novice.
have a really really good look at your paint, if it has heaps of fine scratches, they should buff out, if not they will need rubbing out, for a novice the easy way to determine wat will buff out is simply buff the car, then wat marks and scratches are left, you will need to rub them out!!

step 3 : buffing
pls pls pls, if your a novice, dont use a rotary buffer, they make life easy and cutting faster, but you can stuff your paint very easily, use a round orbital sander, they will take longer than a buffer, but wont wreck your paint, in saying that, you cant camp out on your edges and body lines as it will burn thru, but they are alot more forgiving than a rotary buffer.
buy a good orbi if you can afford it, the cheaper units tend to no have enough power to spin and orbit, they will just orbit when pressure is applied, they will still work, but will take a whole lot longer.
i like to use waffle pads, they tend to do a better job and dust and contaminants tend to go in the higher part of the pad so it wont mark your paint as much, but a flat pad will still give great results.
to cut, you will need cutting compound, i used to use 3m products, but my local had none in stock and i am currently using septone rubbing compound, seems to be working good.
i like to mask the edges of black rubbers and body mouldings so i dont make a mess if the pad touches them,
keep a spray bottle of clean water nearby, fit your cutting pad (usually white) to your orbi, a very light mist of water on the pad and 3 small dobs of compound to the pad, alsways start from the roof and go down to the bonnet then boot then sides of the car,
clean off the area your doing with a microfibre cloth and start buffing, pls only do a small area at a time, the size of an a3 paper is perfect, crank the orbi on high and slowly move the orbi side to side, overlapping by 50%, the compound should take around a minute to dissipate and you will see shine pretty quickly, after a minute on a section, wipe the excess compound off with a microfibre cloth to check your progress.
simply repeat for the whole car,

step 4 : rubbing out scratches (if there are any)
ok, if there are still some scrathces that wont buff out, and you want them gone, you will need, p1200, p1500, p2000 and p3000 (this should be a thin foam pad)
use a pretty firm block, i like to use balsa wood, its cheap, firm and you can easily shape it if needed, always presoak your paper, it helps soften if and wont leave nasty marks, start with 1200, a spray bottle wit some car wash and clean water, spray on the scratch and lightly rub in a x pattern, 1 way first and then the opposit direction, stop and dry off, you will soon see wat is happening and if the scrathc is gone, use the 1200 on and around the scratch untill its nearly gone, always stop and dry the panel to see wats going on, when the scratch is extreemly faint, change to 1500 and extend the area past where you went with the 1200, when the scratch is fully gone, repeat with the 2000 and then 3000, extending a little past the previos area, always keep it clean.
after this has been done and the area is looking clean and scratch free, get the orbie onto it with the cutting compound, it should shine up pretty quickly, repeat for all the scratches

step 5 : glazing
ok, after all the buffing is done, remove all masking tape and give the whole car a good clean, i like to go over it with the spray detailer that came with the clay bar to make sure all the cutting compound is gone
if your paint is a dark color, you will need to glaze it, it removes all the fine marks from the cutting compound, but dont stress, it takes very little time.
if your paint is not dark, simply polish it, you can use the orbi for this, i like to use a black waffle pad, same as the cutting compound, a light spray of water, 3 small dobs of polish around the pad and go for it, it will take very little time, i did my calibra in around 10 mins, applying the polish in a thin even layer, the polish will stretch further than the cutting compound, usually get 1/3 of the bonnet at a time
waith for the polish to dry and rub off with a CLEAN microfibre cloth, then repeat cleaning with another clean m/f cloth and the instant detailer to remove the excess polish, any small part where the orbie wont fit, you will need to do by hand for each step, cutting, polish and wax

step 6: waxing
this is the same as polishing, but use a new clean black pad and m/f cloth
i like to give 2 coats of wax, heck why not, it takes very little time

this is how i detail my paint (well sort of, i mainly use machines to sand as im lazy), it might not be the "proper" way, but i have done it for a while now and have had no problems so far, i have just done my calibra, buffing and polishing in around 5hrs, and the paint was very bad, it has been sitting out in a yard for around 18yrs with out a wash, polish or wax, and the yard was across the rd from the ocean
i didnt goto the extent of rubbing out the deeper scratches as yet, some of the panels will need a respray as they have some issues going on, this is just to tidy it up so i can get some rego, then i will go get the color matched at my local paint shop.

im happy to answer questions, elaborate more and put up some pics, just ask
sorry bout the long post, but i hope it helps someppl out
krem