Topic: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes) (Read 1447 times)

ClubCalibra · « **on:** May 26, 2006, 18:31:15 PM »

Repair of rust holes or gashes in bodywork
Remove all paint from the affected area and from an inch or so of the surrounding “sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available a few sheets of abrasive paper will do the job just as effectively.

With the paint removed you will be able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal badly affected by corrosion.

Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with
rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible treat this also. Before filling can take place it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved by the use of aluminium or plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass fibre matting is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to befilled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is insufficient.

Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.

tim · « **Reply #1 on:** May 31, 2006, 09:05:32 AM »

hi just taken the bodykits sideskirts of my cally to find rust, rubbed them down and some r holes, about five, and also found holes in the suspension pillars in the bonnet, anyone had similar probs, and best wait to fix it? :

ClubCalibra · « **Reply #2 on:** May 31, 2006, 10:16:08 AM »

Welcome to the site mate! The guide above sounds pretty detailed, I'd go with that - just be sure to treat every bit of rust with treatment (buy from Halfords or similar) to ensure that the rust doesn't come back once you've done the repair.

Fibreglass is very easy to play with, give it a go!

tim · « **Reply #3 on:** June 25, 2006, 17:54:05 PM »

cheers

dean · « **Reply #4 on:** August 19, 2006, 17:33:30 PM »

Quote from: tim on May 31, 2006, 09:05:32 AM

hi just taken the bodykits sideskirts of my Cally to find rust, rubbed them down and some r holes, about five, and also found holes in the suspension pillars in the bonnet, anyone had similar probs, and best wait to fix it? :

if you av holes in your sills mate you may not be able take the advice of ash coz sills are part of your mot and gotta be welded if you do take ashes advice your gonna find yourself with an mot failiar I've got my own garage and body shop ask callyt for the measurements and margins where your corrosion is

CallyT · « **Reply #5 on:** August 20, 2006, 11:19:18 AM »

If it fails for a hole in the sill which is out of a prescribed are, and is done so under general vehicle condition, check out the link:
http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_610.htm
Often incorrectly applied

tim · « **Reply #6 on:** October 12, 2006, 20:40:20 PM »

fixed it and passed mot!!!! thanks

torsion · « **Reply #7 on:** January 10, 2007, 10:11:07 AM »

all of you are complaning about rust??? ı havent got them even in fenders?

?

David7 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 09, 2009, 18:52:47 PM »

Are panels avail for the Calibra?

Have some serios rust on the rear wheel arch which will probably have to be cut out? $:-\$
I can weld but need the panel if available.
Can anyone help,
cheers,

Phil. · « **Reply #9 on:** April 10, 2009, 08:27:09 AM »

www.beeversautopanels.co .uk

Go there for any new panels, amazing quality, they fit like OEM panels. I have just fitted a new front wing and bootlid to my MK3 fiesta from this site.

David7 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 10, 2009, 09:07:11 AM »

Nice one, Thanks mate

JB · « **Reply #11 on:** April 10, 2009, 09:59:50 AM »

Awesome find

Author Topic: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes) (Read 1447 times)

ClubCalibra

Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

tim

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

ClubCalibra

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

tim

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

dean

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

CallyT

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

tim

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

torsion

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

David7

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

Phil.

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

David7

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)

JB

Re: Guide to Repairing Rust Holes/Gashes in Bodywork (Src: Haynes)