Author Topic: Guide to Filling and Respraying bodywork (Src: Haynes)  (Read 12259 times)

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Offline ClubCalibra

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Guide to Filling and Respraying bodywork (Src: Haynes)
« on: May 26, 2006, 19:36:21 PM »
Bodywork repairs - filling and respraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well contoured finish to the surface of the filler.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board - measure the hardener carefully (follow the maker
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Offline buick1946

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Re: Guide to Filling and Respraying bodywork (Src: Haynes)
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2009, 18:19:06 PM »
Not quite the way I would do it with the filler. If you lay your filler up in this manner you will get layer upon layer of filler of varying hardnesses. Very hard to work to a perfect finish.
Much better to make up enough filler to do the whole are (even a whole panel) and lay it on thick in one go. Pay particular attention to the edges and ensure you push the filler into metal for good adhesion. Over fill rather than underfill, because you can always sand it all off. Don't wory much about hte quality of the finish at this stage. I allways protect surounding panels with a few layers of masking take near where I am working.
Keep a close eye on your filler while it is going hard. Use a bit that has fallen on the floor to determine when your filler has gone "cheesy". That is about the hardness of a hard chedder cheese.
At this stage begin to sand off the top layer with a body file or long board and 36 grade paper. Remeber you are looking to create the basic shape at this stage so don't go too far. The deepest part of the scratches you are putting in sould be above the final level you are  looking for.
Be gentle, especially near edges as the filler will still tear off the panel at this stage. Getting the shape right with this really course paper should only take a few minutes. If your sand paper clogs up just brush it with a wire brush to keep it working
When you have the basic shape right change to 60 grade paper and begin the smoothing out process. By now your filler will be getting fairly hard. If it is too soft the 60 grade paper will clog, indicating you need to go and have a cup of tea. When the filler is properly hard it will not clog your paper. If you start to see thin spots where you can see metal through the filler STOP. It is now time to put down a guide coat. This is a thin mist of a quick drying black paint such as chassis black.
When the chassis black is dry (about 10 minutes) start sanding again. Now you should be able to see the high and low spots. When you are happy with the shape go to 120 grade paper to start the smoothing out process

Offline buick1946

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Re: Guide to Filling and Respraying bodywork (Src: Haynes)
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2009, 18:37:55 PM »
If you have low spots or little holes, scratches from the 36 grade that are too deep then now is the time to mix another batch of filler and do a skim coat over the imperfections I usually do pretty much the whole panel in a coat so thin you can see through it. ensure you push the filler hard into any holes and scratches. Try not to leave any lumpy bits sticking up.
When the second coat is past the cheesy stage and almost completely hard gently rub of any lumpy bits with 80 grade paper on a rubbing block. then give the entire surface a very light rub with 60 grade to  take the waxy coating off the filler. put on another light mist of chassis black and when it is dry carry on with 120 grade, then 240 and finish off with 320 grade.

Blow off the dust with an air blower hooked to your compressor then spry on 3 or 4 thick coats of undercoat, leaving 10 to 15 minutes between coats for it to dry Mix the undercoat with slightly less than the recomended amount of thinners so it goes on nice and thick. Give it about 30 to 40 minute to dry then spray over a mist of chasis bleck and go and get some beers, because you have finished for today.

When the undercoat is well and truly dry rub it down lightly with first 400 grade paper used dry, then 600 grade used wet for solid colours or 800 grade used wet for metalic colours.

This is all a bit of an oversimplification, but if anyone is interested I will elaborate on the steps and what to do about problems in further posts.