Topic: Guide to Cleaning Idle Control Valve (16v) (Read 3823 times)

Shince · « **Reply #20 on:** January 27, 2008, 07:12:18 AM »

will ti be the same kinda set up for my engine coz i need to do this

Shince · « **Reply #21 on:** January 27, 2008, 07:16:54 AM »

can some one repost pics plz

Quote from: V Mad on March 22, 2007, 15:17:42 PM

OK. I just did my redtop IAC (ICV?) valve. Heres the low down.

WARNING: Disconnect the battery otherwise the starter solenoid can short out!!

The IAC valve is a pig to get to, and the connector has a clip that you need to figure out.

I took off the engine bay undershield so I could see what I was doing. You can possibly do it by feel from the left side of vehicle if you know what you are doing.

The valve is located between the engine block, and the intake manifold, below the throttle body.

Locate the hose under the right side of the SFI box. Undo the hose from the box, and follow it down where you will find it connected to the IAC valve.

There is a short hose connecting the valve to the inlet manifold. Undo the jubilee clip and pull the valve off the hose.

Next, find the clip on the connector. Pull one of the 'ears' of the clip to remove it, then the connector should come off.

Now you can pull out the hose complete with valve.

Clean it out with carb cleaner etc as already explained elswhere.

WARNINGDo not use any silicone based fluids- it will contaminate your O2 sensor!!!

For the more technically minded, the IAC valve is like an electric motor which is held in one position (closed) by a spring. When a voltage is applied to it, it will rotate way from the stop position in proportion to the voltage. The motor shaft is connected to a valve which allows the amount of air flowing through it to increase in proportion to its rotation. When the ECU senses (via the crank sensor) that the idle speed needs to be increased/decreased, it transmits to the IAC valve a voltage which opens/closes the valve a small amount, until the correct idle speed is reached.

You can test the IAC valve in on the bench using a 12 volt power supply. It should open fully within about 8 to 10 volts; half open at about 3-6 volts). If you can vary the volts, check that it opens and closes smoothly.

Hope you find that useful guys.

im an idiot n if u could pics would save my day m8

V Mad · « **Reply #22 on:** February 07, 2008, 22:43:19 PM »

I just bought a new valve as mine still sticks sometimes. When I get round to changing it I will take some pics for you guys who need spoon feeding!! hah!!

I also bought a new alternator to fit when I can be arsed.

Apart form that the car is running a dream. I have had to work hard on this car since I bought it last Jan, repaired the wheel arches, overhauled the cooling system controls, new lambda sensor, replaced all HT ignition parts, vee belts and two old tyres, and a new airflow sensor hose. At times I have wondered if its all worth it, but its now paying off and has got much more reliable. Covered nearly 20k over 12 months! What a bargain these cars are though if you can DIY! Stick with it guys and it will pay off in the long run.

DrZux · « **Reply #23 on:** February 23, 2008, 01:13:08 AM »

Cheers Ben, doing this tomorrow, have saved it with the pictures in Word so I can take it outside with me. Cheers to Bricks as well for pointing this out to me.

bricksnbikes · « **Reply #24 on:** February 24, 2008, 02:16:59 AM »

good luck dr zux , the only thing i would say is be carfull when unscrewing the valve as the screws are very tight , make sure your screw driver is a good tight fit and dont drop them down into the engine bay as their a bugger to find if they dont fall onto the floor !!!!!

extraction · « **Reply #25 on:** April 29, 2008, 12:29:32 PM »

Sorry for replying to such an old topic but Has anyone got a guide to do this for the calibra turbo with pictures?

lennycal · « **Reply #26 on:** June 01, 2008, 16:37:31 PM »

righto guys im a calibra neewbie .
i have a redtop c20xe i got the idle problem but i cleaned it out and replaced it and its running worse now i used carb cleaner and the car wont keep idling at all beforehand it was a bit erattic and stallin some of the time..
any ideas.
also not sure about this one but at the right hand top corner of the engine is a small black box which has a plug and two hose connections only one hose is connected on mine im not sure if i may have knocked it out when i got the valve out but thing is i cant find any hose that would plug in there ...
any help would be brill guys i just wamt my cali back on the road only been two days and i miss it

gorytus · « **Reply #27 on:** June 01, 2008, 16:50:24 PM »

"right hand top corner of the engine is a small black box which has a plug and two hose connections only one hose is connected on mine "
Could be the fuel tank vent valve. If you knocked off the hose going to the front of the throttle body, you will have an unmetered air leak. Which will cause idle problems.

lennycal · « **Reply #28 on:** June 01, 2008, 16:56:57 PM »

so where does the hose on this go m8 as i said one is attached and runs left under the (fuel rail) i think ... the other part points towards the windscreen but i cant see any loose hose or anything i will attach a pic in a few minutes

lennycal · « **Reply #29 on:** June 01, 2008, 17:03:45 PM »

heres the pic...a close up of the part im on about

[attachment automatically deleted by admin due to excessive size]

gorytus · « **Reply #30 on:** June 01, 2008, 17:12:29 PM »

yes, thats the fuel tank vent valve. If you want to find the 'lost' hose, it comes out of the inner wing /wheel arch on the drivers side. It comes from the carbon canister that sits in your wheel arch , from there a further hose leads back to your fuel tank.

The attached hose that appears to lead under the fuel rail attaches to the front of the throttle body.

lennycal · « **Reply #31 on:** June 01, 2008, 17:14:50 PM »

ill go have a look for it now m8

lennycal · « **Reply #32 on:** June 01, 2008, 17:55:36 PM »

k m8 i found one hose /cable and tried that but it didnt do anything .so i to0k the air filter etc off and it worked weird but when i put the filter back on it works but cuts out after a bit

gorytus · « **Reply #33 on:** June 01, 2008, 18:03:30 PM »

Whats the etc in 'to0k the air filter etc off '?

lennycal · « **Reply #34 on:** June 01, 2008, 18:43:12 PM »

the air filter and the bosch box on the air filter pipe think its a sensor

lennycal · « **Reply #35 on:** June 01, 2008, 18:51:48 PM »

here it is

[attachment automatically deleted by admin due to excessive size]

lennycal · « **Reply #36 on:** June 01, 2008, 18:53:22 PM »

obviously sounded louder than normal with it off and we pluged it back in it sounded great but cut out again after a minute or so but its gettin better didnt last 10 seconds earlier

gorytus · « **Reply #37 on:** June 01, 2008, 18:54:59 PM »

that is your air flow meter.

Try this, with everything in place - filter, filter pipes, sensor - unplug the loom from that sensor and then start.

See how you get on.

lennycal · « **Reply #38 on:** June 01, 2008, 19:03:14 PM »

k m8 btw thanx for your help on this really helps im no mechanic but dont mind havin a go if its summit easy -ish lol
fingers crossed ....
also there is a screw on this meter what does it do ?

lennycal · « **Reply #39 on:** June 01, 2008, 20:51:55 PM »

k m8 works without the plug in and stops after pluggin it in i suppose i need a new sensor
ill get one this week and try it

Author Topic: Guide to Cleaning Idle Control Valve (16v) (Read 3823 times)

Shince

Shince

V Mad

DrZux

bricksnbikes

lennycal

gorytus

lennycal

lennycal

gorytus

lennycal

lennycal

gorytus

lennycal

lennycal

lennycal

gorytus

lennycal

lennycal