Topic: Guide to Cleaning Idle Control Valve (16v) (Read 3821 times)

Ben · « **on:** March 01, 2007, 21:06:31 PM »

If your revs are eratic then you may want to try this out, it worked for me.

First loosen the two jubilee clips to disconnect a small section of the air pipe from the throttle body.
Then disconnect the plug from the Idle Control Unit, See first pic. (ICU looks like a small cylinder bolted to the side of throttle body)

When this is done remove the two bolts that holds it to throttle body. (See pic 2) The bottom one is difficult to access with a normal Allen key so i used a screw driver with detachable bits for this. Clamp mole grips to the handle of screwdriver if they are too tight to unscrew by hand. BECAREFULL NOT TO DROP THE SCREWS THOUGH.

The unit is now detached. Now undo the two screws on the unit its self so it splits in two. (see pic 3)

Now spray lots of carb and throttle cleaner into the open holes. (See pic 4.) P.S. WD40 will only oil it carb cleaner will actually clean it out. Fill it up with this spray and then cover all the holes with your fingers and give it a good shack about. Tip left over spray out and see all the black crap come out. Repeat this last step over and over until the inside looks like new.

Now reassemble by reversing this guide.

[this is an old attachment so now removed]

CalibraDTM · « **Reply #1 on:** March 01, 2007, 21:36:45 PM »

Nice guide mate, nice and clear! great for dim wits like me!! I will be doing this tommorow, see if it makes any difference!

Matt

Ben · « **Reply #2 on:** March 01, 2007, 21:42:50 PM »

remember clean it with carb or throttle cleaner tho. WD40 NO NO!!!!

ClubCalibra · « **Reply #3 on:** March 02, 2007, 19:27:59 PM »

Nice one matey!!! Moving to FAQ's and rewarding you with some credits!! Make sure you BANK YOUR CREDITS else they'll get stolen!!

Pedro · « **Reply #4 on:** March 04, 2007, 23:25:10 PM »

IMPRTANT: lightly oil all moving parts with 3-4 drops of light oil before refitting!!!!

MartyD · « **Reply #5 on:** March 04, 2007, 23:31:15 PM »

Does this count for the Redtop too?? is the SFI box the only difference? the ICV is still in the smae place right??

V Mad · « **Reply #6 on:** March 22, 2007, 15:17:42 PM »

OK. I just did my redtop IAC (ICV?) valve. Heres the low down.

WARNING: Disconnect the battery otherwise the starter solenoid can short out!!

The IAC valve is a pig to get to, and the connector has a clip that you need to figure out.

I took off the engine bay undershield so I could see what I was doing. You can possibly do it by feel from the left side of vehicle if you know what you are doing.

The valve is located between the engine block, and the intake manifold, below the throttle body.

Locate the hose under the right side of the SFI box. Undo the hose from the box, and follow it down where you will find it connected to the IAC valve.

There is a short hose connecting the valve to the inlet manifold. Undo the jubilee clip and pull the valve off the hose.

Next, find the clip on the connector. Pull one of the 'ears' of the clip to remove it, then the connector should come off.

Now you can pull out the hose complete with valve.

Clean it out with carb cleaner etc as already explained elswhere.

WARNINGDo not use any silicone based fluids- it will contaminate your O2 sensor!!!

For the more technically minded, the IAC valve is like an electric motor which is held in one position (closed) by a spring. When a voltage is applied to it, it will rotate way from the stop position in proportion to the voltage. The motor shaft is connected to a valve which allows the amount of air flowing through it to increase in proportion to its rotation. When the ECU senses (via the crank sensor) that the idle speed needs to be increased/decreased, it transmits to the IAC valve a voltage which opens/closes the valve a small amount, until the correct idle speed is reached.

You can test the IAC valve in on the bench using a 12 volt power supply. It should open fully within about 8 to 10 volts; half open at about 3-6 volts). If you can vary the volts, check that it opens and closes smoothly.

Hope you find that useful guys.

Yuri · « **Reply #7 on:** June 08, 2007, 16:33:11 PM »

Where abouts is it on the v6?

gen001 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 13, 2007, 21:51:26 PM »

Just cleaned out the Idle Control Unit on 16V. As mine was stalling and revs were erratic.
Things are looking good up to now.
P.S. The Pictures were a great help.

Ben · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2007, 21:59:30 PM »

Quote from: gen001 on June 13, 2007, 21:51:26 PM

Just cleaned out the Idle Control Unit on 16V. As mine was stalling and revs were erratic.
Things are looking good up to now.
P.S. The Pictures were a great help.

not a problem happy to help

gen001 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 24, 2007, 15:13:57 PM »

Quote from: gen001 on June 13, 2007, 21:51:26 PM

Just cleaned out the Idle Control Unit on 16V. As mine was stalling and revs were erratic.
Things are looking good up to now.
P.S. The Pictures were a great help.

The ECU light has just come on again... what a surprise!!! i

jon · « **Reply #11 on:** September 28, 2007, 08:50:05 AM »

thats better than a haynes manual i will give that a go later cheers

neilmara · « **Reply #12 on:** November 06, 2007, 16:17:30 PM »

any chance the attatchment can be added again, just picked up a calibra for cheap. EML on and symtoms similar.

Anyone have any idea what could be what seems like oil coming from up in right wheel arch too??

Also where can i pick up a half decent driver handbook?? is it worth the trouble??

tubulon · « **Reply #13 on:** November 19, 2007, 10:37:30 AM »

Hey guys thanks for the guide. this site rocks the kasbah!
Just dont fix your ICV like i did. "the australian way".by putting it off till a 34 degree day wile the engine is still hot and without the use of ramps or hoist...dumb

Ben · « **Reply #14 on:** November 19, 2007, 21:37:33 PM »

Hello every one,
I am pleased this guide has been of some help to some of you.

I now need to clean mine again, first time since i posted this............
Here are the pics again that go with the guide at top of page 1.

Please note that this is for the ecotec engine.

Thanks
Ben

[attachment deleted by admin]

Shince · « **Reply #15 on:** December 08, 2007, 03:06:12 AM »

get pics back up

tk15 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 08, 2007, 12:52:37 PM »

ya im having trouble finding mine on the redtop!!

V Mad · « **Reply #17 on:** December 08, 2007, 12:59:01 PM »

Quote from: tk15 on December 08, 2007, 12:52:37 PM

ya im having trouble finding mine on the redtop!!

Read my posting earlier on this thread for the redtop valve.

tk15 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 08, 2007, 15:09:13 PM »

i have read your post a number of times but not being mechanically mined i have to know what im looking at because by some one just saying its connected to this or that means nothing to me at all.. lol

V Mad · « **Reply #19 on:** December 10, 2007, 10:34:33 AM »

Quote from: tk15 on December 08, 2007, 15:09:13 PM

i have read your post a number of times but not being mechanically mined i have to know what im looking at because by some one just saying its connected to this or that means nothing to me at all.. lol

You dont need to be a mechanical wizard. Read this bit again:

Locate the hose under the right side of the SFI box. The SFI box is the one with SFI written on top of it.

Undo the hose from the SFI box, and follow it down/along where you will find it connected to the IAC valve. Can you follow that?

If so you have found the IAC valve!!

Author Topic: Guide to Cleaning Idle Control Valve (16v) (Read 3821 times)

CalibraDTM

Pedro

V Mad

Yuri

jon

neilmara

tubulon

Shince

V Mad

V Mad