ClubCalibra | C20XE / C20LET helicoil guide with pics (for cross threaded/stripped threads)

Author Topic: C20XE / C20LET helicoil guide with pics (for cross threaded/stripped threads)  (Read 1711 times)

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Offline Bad Kid

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Vauxhall Big Block helicoil guide

This guide was taken for an XE/LET block but should equally apply to C20NE blocks, and probably even the newer ecotec family of 2ltr big blocks.

A common problem occurs with these blocks when torquing the cylinder head. If the bolts supplied are too short then they can tear the thread straight out of the block. This typically happens on the head bolt hole nearest the dipstick tube.

Helicoilling is the process of repairing a damaged thread by drilling the hole oversize, tapping it to a larger thread then using a threaded insert to bring it back to original dimensions. This is typically a stainless steel insert, which if installed correctly is stronger than the original thread.

The kit you need for a Vauxhall big-block is M11 x 1.25 which is not the most common M11 thread, so be careful when ordering to ensure the pitch is correct. It is also a good idea to make the switch to headstuds at this point, which are re-usable and put less strain on the threads.

Begin with the cylinder head removed


If the block is in-situ, take your time in preparing it so that swarf cannot enter the oilways, waterways or bores. I found the best way was to degrease the block then use a couple of layers of newspaper and duck tape to seal it all off except the hole being worked


Next up, use the supplied drill bit (11.4mm for this instance) to drill out the damaged hole. This makes it slightly oversized


Then use the supplied tap. This is the same thread as the outside of the helicoil insert.


You'll then be left with a hole full of swarf



I used firstly a magnetic screwdriver to pick up as much of it as possible. The block (and therefore swarf) is iron so this works well.



Next I used a screwdriver covered in moly grease to pick up any leftover debris and also give the threads a light smear of grease


The result...


With a flash...


Next up take your helicoil insert and the supplied driver. Note the helicoil has a tang at one end (the bent bit!). This end goes into the block first. Adjust the driver so the insert sits snug inside it


Wind it into the block using the driver with a little downward pressure. Be careful - winding it in too far may be irreversible! Check regularly to see the progress of the insert into the block and stop at the recommended depth (in this case - 1/2 turn from the top of the thread). Go too far in and your stud won't bite!

Here's the fitted helicoil


Finally get a hammer and the supplied tang-break


Use the break as a punch, and give it a short, sharp blow from the hammer to break it off, then recover the tang with your magnetic device.

Job done!
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Offline Bad Kid

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Could a mod please move this to the appropriate guide section? Thanks
Calibra Turbo DTM touring car project - Bitches coming soon Chat/discussion/spamhere
Vectra GSi 3.2 V6 mint daily driver, lowered on Eibachs!
2003 Civic-Type R 30th Anniversary.

Offline Trigger

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Yet another good guide from you Ben. Topic moved

Offline carl

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awesome guide spud...
bodybuilding thread! the thread for winners!
http://www.clubcalibra.com/index.php?topic=34651.msg449718#msg449718
**Carl's calibra project**
http://www.clubcalibra.com/index.php?topic=34701.msg450951#msg450951
You argued with an idiot, I brought you down to my level and I beat you with experience.

Offline Rhino

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after selling hellicoils or wire inserts, you shoild NEVER apply downward pressure when winding them in, the reason for this isis, you risk skipping threads with the helicoil, that that is a very big risk insert will not follow were its tapped resulting in the insert to be removed binned and a new one wound in, never punch down with a hammer again you risk pushing the insert down and again making it skip threads seen that done sooooo manyy times what you do it pull the inserting tool up turn it a 1/4 turn and give it a gentle whack with your hand, other than  that bloody good guide
Dave
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Bovva

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Top guide Benjamin ;D

Offline Bad Kid

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after selling hellicoils or wire inserts, you shoild NEVER apply downward pressure when winding them in, the reason for this isis, you risk skipping threads with the helicoil

If you have the correct inserting too, it sits tight inside the helicoil meaning the coil cannot jump threads as it's being wound in. The instructions also clearly state you should apply a little downward pressure.

Quote
never punch down with a hammer again you risk pushing the insert down and again making it skip threads

Again, this is what the manufacturers instructions say, along with my engineer. Plus dont forget when the coil is wound in, you've got a dozen or so points of contact to resist the hammer blow. More importantly the tang is already weakened - if you look closely you'll see it's designed to break off.

Not saying I'm right and you're wrong - but the way I did it was by the book and IMO very safe.
Calibra Turbo DTM touring car project - Bitches coming soon Chat/discussion/spamhere
Vectra GSi 3.2 V6 mint daily driver, lowered on Eibachs!
2003 Civic-Type R 30th Anniversary.


 


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