U need a proper camshaft, ain't u ask to Cat/Kent..... for a correct timed one?

Yes, I need a camshaft with low or zero overlap between the exhaust valve closing and the intake valve opening or the turbo high pressure mixture charge gets blown out the exhaust (backfire) Cat cams is a real possibility as they can grind cams to order and they have up rated valve springs too, to stop float at around 5000 rpm (spring seats might need machining though). The stock cam is for injection but normally aspirated, good to about 200hp.

Hi all

Just an update, managed to get some c20get +0.75mm pistons made by sealed power, cast not forged but not going to exceed 6500 rpm anyways. Delivered were £78 from the USA. ordered rings for them plus new hydraulic lifters. Going to send the 20E head to have the new valve guides pushed in, then grind the valves into their seats after a bit of porting and polishing next weekend. Last on the list is some ARP bolts from the USA again for £47 instead of the rip off £80 on egay and elsewhere. I am going to use the 8v rods (shot peened) which will be good to 300Hp with ARP-s and the rev limit, the conrods are only experiencing extra compression forces not G forces of extended revolutions - I don't get the obsession with RPM on a street car,  the calibra´s don´t have variable cam timing. I would rather pull a higher gear with more torque - discuss....

I have heard the diesel version of the followers are stronger than the petrol version, anyone done this?

Apart from a full gasket set and full bearing set and machining the bores and maybe the crank, I am good to go.

I managed to get a full engine plus gearbox plus spare inlet manifold and all ancilliaries from Milo in Sheffield - the go to guy for Calibra parts.

Hi

You seam to have ruled out the fuel pump for now......fuel filter and relays etc ok.   This may be a long shot but check the earth wires attached to the fuel rail.....they could be loose but not sure if this is would effect operation.

When you turn the Ignition key to start your car.......power is sent to the fuel relay.......maybe there is a wiring problem here.  The contacts in the electrical switch part of the ignition is mounted on the opposite side of the ignition key barrel and turns when the key is turned.   You could fit a new switch to see if this is the problem.  Good Luck

Thanks once more for continiung to provide me with good advice! Sorry to keep coming back to this over and over... consider it as a strong will to keep driving my beloved car

As far as I can tell, just by attempting to turn the bolts in any direction, they are sitting tight. This goes for both the front and back lower arm bolts, as well as the subframe bolts that I showed on the pictures. Should I untighten and retighten to be sure? Not sure if there is any risk of doing that, so want to be sure...

Wish I could make a close-up video of how everything interacts in the suspension when hitting a bump

From what I can tell, I should also rule out bump steer. I think this would normally have to show as well when driving over a smooth bump, but it does not. The steering wheel only seems to shudder on 'impact'.

Cheers again!

Hello,  everyone!
I just fit a new fuel pump and new fuel filter,  and I have a problem with all this stuff.  I don't have any fuel on ramp injection, it looks like fuel pump ( external one) don't get any fuel from tank.
Can somebody give me any advice?
Car is 2.0 redtop,  c20xe engine
Many thanks